Easy Diy Plywood Storage Box with Geometric Inlay

It’s great to share another project with you again that I’m really looking forward to! This is the perfect project for those of you who are just starting to do all this “building” and want to train with the mother of all DIY tools: the Kreg model. Without further ado, I will give you my DIY plywood storage box:

A little Story here: We live in eastern Canada and the winters are quite brutal. Two years ago we installed a wood stove and this is the best decision we have ever made.

I’m telling you, there’s nothing better than the heat up of the woods when there’s six feet of snow outside and they’re discussing moving to Hawaii permanently. I honestly think that in the middle of January-February-March I would have a hard time choosing between my wood stove and my husband. (That would be a difficult decision, that’s all I’m saying.)

We had used a sad little metal stand that had a nylon hammock, but it wouldn’t hold more than a few hours of wood, and more importantly, it was obnoxious. It was also quite chaotic, because there were only two sides, and I had to constantly sweep the bark and wood crumbs.

When Matt and I were considering projects for my next Remodelaholic article, he had the brilliant idea that I would find a suitable storage solution for firewood.

I briefly tried the idea of open shelves on one side of the wall, which I saw and looks really beautiful. However, my practicality came to the fore (this rarely happens) when I realized that it would still be quite messy and would only be nice if the shelves were constantly filled.

I chose a simple storage box made of 3/4″ plywood and 1″ x 2″ pine trim. I had so much wood waste from other projects lying around in our garage, and it seemed like a great opportunity to consume some.

How to build a plywood storage box for firewood

Materials and tools:

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3/4″ Plywood (one sheet)
8′ Pin 1″ x 2″ trim (5 tips-more if make decorative inlay)
Circular saw or table saw
Miter saw
KregJig pocket hole system and 1 1/4″ screw
Finishing nailer and finishing nails 1 1/2″
Support
Wood glue
Wood filler colorable/ varnishable
Random orbit sander and 120 Grit paper
Color or spot
Ergonomic handle for Spray painting
Piano hinge 2 – 3/4″ (36″ long) and hardware
4 high-performance lockable casters (optional) and hardware
Plywood cutting list
2 – 16″ x 38″ (two side parts)
2 – 16″ x 16″ (two tails)
1 – 16″ x 36.5″ (bottom piece)
1-17. 5″ x 38″ (top piece)
Trim Cut List
14″ (4 pieces)
16″ (8 pieces)
36 1/2″ (4 pieces)

Installation instructions

As mentioned above, I used wood that I already had in the Garage. The plywood I used was super rough spruce, but if you wanted this piece to look more finished and high quality, it might be interesting to splurge on something more beautiful quality birch or something like that.

You can always ask the hardware store to cut your plywood for you, but if this is not the matter, use a table or circular saw to cut your parts to the right dimensions.

Full disclosure: I don’t like using the table saw. I don’t really have the setup to handle large wood panels, and I find I’m not that accurate with that. If you are like me, you can easily make these cuts with a straight edge and a circular saw. (Mine is a small Mini-One that can cut up to 1 1/4″ of material and I’m preoccupy with that!)

After cutting all your plywood pieces to the right dimensions, drill 3/4″ pocket holes in the parallel sides of the two 16″ x 16″ ends with your KregJig.

Once you’ve drilled your pocket holes, attach the 16″ x 16″ square pieces to the 16″ x 38″ rectangular side pieces with wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.

After assembling all the side parts, you should have a beautiful bottomless box.

Now you are ready to attach the 16″ x 36 1/2″ floor piece. Drills 3/4″ pocket holes all around the perimeter of the Board.

Attach the card to the bottom of the box with wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.

I had my pocket holes at the bottom of the box to make it easier to attach this piece, because you won’t see it anyway.

It’s time to cut the box with 1″ x 2″ pin to hide those plywood edges. Trim to length with your miter saw and secure flush with 1 1/2″ wood glue and finishing nails to the ends of the box.

Once you have secured the trim to both ends of the box, cut out the front and back of the box in the same way, closing the trim flush with the trimmings on the side. (This means that your liner overlaps your plywood by about 3/4″.) Use wood glue and 1 1/2″ finish nails.

Now that you have cut the can, it’s time to cut the lid. Simply attach 1″ x 2″ trim flush to the edge of your 17 1/2″ x 38″ piece of plywood with wood glue and 1 1/2″ finishing nails.

And here is your storage box with lid, trimmed in all its glory:

At this point, you can either leave the box as it is and continue with the final touch, or spice it up a little with a little inlay. I had a lot of extra trim lying around, and I felt the box needed something. I decided to make a patterned inlay.

For the inlay, I played when I left. I started with the vertical and horizontal pieces by 90 degrees, then, to fill the empty space, I used my miter saw to cut a variety of trapezoids and parallelograms at 45 degrees, to get the desired look, dry them in place before fixing them with wood glue and finishing nails

I did it at the front and at both ends, but I left it at the back as it is, because no one will ever see it and I ran out of trim!

Sometimes it pays to walk past the seat of the pants.

Fill all the holes and nail holes with wood putty, let it dry and sand it using 120 grit abrasive pads and an electric sander.

After sanding the entire part (bottom and lid), wipe off all residues with an adhesive cloth and color or paint as desired. I had just had a spray nozzle attached to their cans of spray paint (so-called “eliminate finger fatigue”) that I definitely wanted to try, so I chose the spray paint path. I used Rustoleum paint and primer in a silk matte white.

I must say that this small nozzle worked surprisingly well. If you have a lot of spray paint, I recommend investing in one of these little boys!

It took almost three cans of paint to get the desired coverage on the box and the lid, and of course I just let them dry enough (I have to work on my patience) so that I could cope with them without the paint being completely scratched. However, I recommend letting it dry for at least 24 hours. 🙂

The next step is completely optional: after the paint has “dried”, add four lockable heavy-duty rollers to the bottom of the box. I made it so that we can turn it on and off easily if we want to.

Phew! You’re almost done. The final step is to secure the lid to the floor with a 36″ x 3/4″ piano hinge and suitable hardware (which normally come together). I had to manually use my good old-fashioned screwdriver for this, because someone (matt) put down my small square drill.

Align the hinge flush with the upper edge and fasten it at each end with a screw. I didn’t put all the screws in until I also attached the top to the hinge to make sure everything is aligned properly.

Ok, now you’re done! How does it feel? I’m telling you, it was pretty good for me! I let my dad help me take him to his new house by the stove, so I could surprise Matt when he came home from football with his Dudebros.

I’m rather pleased with the beauty of what happened, even though I used plywood scraps that have probably been in the Garage since 2013.

If it were to be used for something like toys, blankets, etc., I would have put a lot more care into the finishing work, but for the intended use and the wear and tear it has to endure, I didn’t want to cling too much to the tiny details.

I love how much wood this bad boy is holding! I have considered adding lockable hinges inside to prevent the lid from closing, but it doesn’t seem necessary for our use. I would probably invest in a pair if it was a toy box with little fingers.

Matt has already asked to install a handle on top to make it easier to open and close the lid. I thought a leather bracelet might look good. Thoughts?

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